Seasonal ATV Storage Tips
Proper ATV storage prevents the most common spring-return problems: gummed carburetors from stale fuel, dead batteries, and rodent damage. The critical steps: add fuel stabilizer, run the engine to circulate it, change oil before storage, disconnect or tender the battery, and cover the machine with a breathable cover.
Fuel System Preparation
Stale fuel left in the carburetor or fuel system over the off-season is the #1 cause of spring no-start problems. Ethanol-blended fuel (E10) is especially prone to moisture absorption and phase separation over 30+ days of storage.
The process:
- 1. Add fuel stabilizer to the tank (Sta-Bil or equivalent) — follow the dosage on the bottle.
- 2. Run the engine for 10 minutes to circulate stabilized fuel through the carb/injectors.
- 3. Option A: Fill the tank full to minimize air space and moisture condensation.
- 4. Option B (carb engines): Drain the carburetor bowl by turning off the petcock and running the engine until it dies — prevents varnish buildup in the bowl.
Oil Change Before Storage
Used engine oil contains acids and combustion byproducts that accelerate internal corrosion during storage. Change the oil and filter before putting the machine away — not in spring when you take it out.
Fresh oil stores better. The machine starts its next season with clean oil rather than old oil that's been sitting for months.
Battery Care
- •Connect a battery tender/float charger. Keeps the battery at full charge without overcharging. Costs $25–$40 and prevents a $80–$150 battery replacement every spring.
- •Alternatively: disconnect the negative terminal and store the battery indoors (above freezing) for winter.
- •Never leave a battery connected and uncharged for 3+ months — deep discharge kills modern AGM and lithium batteries permanently.
Physical Storage Preparation
- ✓Wash and dry thoroughly before storage — mud and moisture trapped under fenders causes corrosion
- ✓Lubricate all pivot points — tie rods, A-arm joints, shift linkage, throttle cable
- ✓Inflate tires to max spec — they'll settle slightly over winter; this prevents flat spots
- ✓Rodent prevention: Plug exhaust with a rag or foam plug; mice build nests in exhaust pipes and eat wiring insulation
- ✓Use a breathable cover — not a plastic tarp, which traps moisture and accelerates rust
Frequently Asked Questions
Should I drain the carb or add stabilizer before storing my ATV?
Both approaches work. Fuel stabilizer + full tank is easiest. Draining the carb bowl is better for long storage (6+ months) on older carbureted engines. Modern fuel-injected ATVs: stabilizer + full tank is sufficient.
Do I need to change the oil before storing my ATV?
Yes. Used oil contains acids that cause internal corrosion during storage. Change oil and filter before putting it away, not in spring.
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